I SAID ENLARGE DAMN YOU

gmnitsua · 2012-05-25T18:31:12.888997+00:00

What do you mean blue switches aren't best for your playing style?

I hope you're not referring to the myth that blue switches are difficult to rapidly double-tap the same key, due to the switch activation and release point. If you are, forget it, because that is simply not the case. Yes, the information you've seen is accurate and the release point on the blue switches is higher than the activation point, but in reality, it's such a miniscule difference that it's VERY difficult to cause an error, even if you're intentionally trying to do it. Also, if you do somehow manage to not fully release the switch, you'll instantly know it because the key won't click when you press it down the next time.

In other words, any bad things you've heard about blue switches and gaming is a complete load of poop. I game on blue switches and I've played everything from RTS (Starcraft 2) to high level Quake Live without ever once having a single issue. Also, they're fucking awesome to type on.

The only thing that really matters for gaming, in my opinion at least, is that the switches need to have enough resistance so that you won't accidentally press a key just by mistake. Blue switches aren't as firm as blacks, but compared to a rubber membrane keyboard they are MORE than enough.

gmnitsua · 2012-05-25T18:25:36.042860+00:00

The Rosewill RK9000 is essentially a Majestouch with Rosewill written on it. I have two of them. The only difference is that the keys are laser etched rather than double injected or whatever they call that process. Laser etched is more than durable enough to last several lifetimes, so don't worry about it.

If you open up an RK9000, it even has a FILCO branded controller on the PCB.

aNt-e · 2012-05-25T10:11:21.775434-07:00

Wait, that picture is your counter argument?

When I look at that picture it only backs up toolongdontread's assertion that repraps cannot print LEGO.

Sure, the printer managed to print something that resembles a LEGO brick, and is even close enough to a LEGO that it can connect to a LEGO brick. However, the printed brick looks like crap, and clearly isn't anywhere even remotely close to as precisely created as the real LEGO bricks are.

The tolerances don't matter very much when you're only connecting two or three bricks, but imagine building a large structure with thousands of printed bricks. The problems with those loose tolerances would be hugely magnified and it would probably look like shit if it was even possible, and I bet you'd have to throw out just as many bricks as you printed because they weren't good enough to use.

spoonraker · 2 days

I just realized I had a typo, the second "higher speed driver" is an SL, not a TL. I carry both. Should make a lot more sense now.

spoonraker · 2 days

Fairway drivers:

Champ Teebird. I throw this for just about everything in calm conditions.
Star TL. A great compliment to the Teebird, it flies just as straight, but with almost no fade. I use it for gentle anhyzers, or any longer shot where I don't have a lot of room to work with.
Z Predator. It's massively overstable so I use it in heavy winds, or for long distance hyzers.

Higher speed drivers:

Champ Sidewinder. Hyzer flip shots, long anhyzers, or if I'm feeling crazy and want to chuck it down a hill.
Star SL. I use this on pretty much any hole where I need a lot of distance and I have a decent amount of room to work with. It's understable enough to flip over, but not as much as the Sidewinder. I'll also throw this for big anhyzers if I don't need quite as much turnover as the Sidewinder provides.
ESP Nuke. I really don't throw this disc all that much, but when I do I count on it to just fly really far really straight and then fade hard. Sometimes I pull this out for really long distance anhyzer flex shots, but that depends a lot on the wind.

spoonraker · 2 days

I'm not actually 100% sure since I've never actually gone out into a flat field and just measured, but I'd estimate around 450' max on a really good drive. Don't get me wrong, I'm certainly not saying my average flat drive is 450', that is more the absolute upper limit of how far I think I could drive in a flat field with no wind on a perfect throw. This rarely happens, and when it all comes together perfectly with a tailwind throwing downhill, it makes me happy.

spoonraker · 2 days

That's weird, the putter pocket on my bag doesn't seem to even be remotely stressed by having 2 putters. In fact, they sit in there pretty loosely and can easily fall out of the bag if I bounce it around.

Although I could see how it might potentially split open at the bottom of the pocket if you really tried to shove them down hard. It seems to me that the putter pocket is smaller at the bottom and opens up at the top, that's why one putter always sits slightly higher.

spoonraker · 2 days

I didn't do anything differently for that specific shot other than what I always do for a hyzer flip shot, which is release an understable disc with a lot of snap on a hyzer angle. It was just one of those rare shots where absolutely everything goes perfectly: good weight transfer, good reach back, straight pull at the right time, great snap, clean release, and a good follow through sent that disc further down the hill than I've ever thrown anything.

spoonraker · 2 days

Missing those putts is the worst feeling ever. At least after my monster drive I still had about 100 feet to the basket so I don't feel too terrible for screwing up. Parking a stupidly long drive and then missing an easy putt just sucks, I've done that plenty of times.

The best thing is when you shoot a monster drive and THEN throw your upshot directly into the chains from a couple hundred feet out for a deuce on a hole that you normally shoot 4 on. I did that the other day as well and it was fantastic.

zonabay · 2 days

Also, you really shouldn't ever throw a mid-range disc for any shot under 200 feet most of the time. A putter would provide much more control for the 50-200' range.

For me personally, I don't even "throw" most shots that are <75', I jump putt them, and then everything past that below 250' I throw a putter backhand.

zonabay · 2 days

This. Even a Buzzz shouldn't turn over. A Buzzz is just about perfectly neutral stability, it should fly just about dead straight and then have a moderate fade. If you're turning over even a Wasp then you've definitely got OAT issues.

skatespecialk · 2 days

Might as well pick up a Firebird or a Predator now too, that way you have a wind-ready fairway driver to go with your midrange and high speed driver.

skatespecialk · 2 days

There is no "trick" to throwing a Flick. A Flick is one of, if not the most overstable driver in existence. It's supposed to do absolutely nothing other than turn right hard (assuming RHFH throw). It requires a ton of power to throw even remotely flat, and it has very little glide. It's a great disc to throw into hurricane force winds, or if you need a huge hyzer shot.

If you're using a Flick as your primary driver even in calm winds and on holes that aren't dogleg right (again, assuming RHFH), you're doing it wrong.

The reason the Flick is so popular with forehand throwers is because the most common problem people have with forehand shots is they can't keep them level. Novice forehand throwers have a huge tendency to roll their wrist over as they throw which causes "normal" discs to turn over and fall off to the left. (RHFH) Depending on the severity of this problem the shot could end up being a roller, or just a big S-curve shot. A lot of people "fix" this problem by throwing a ridiculously overstable disc like the Flick, which will fight against the tendency of the disc to turn over, rather than just learning how to throw without rolling their wrist over.

If you're throwing a Flick RHFH and it's turning hard right, that's good, because it means you're throwing flat. To fix the problem of the disc turning hard right, simply throw a different disc that's not ludicrously overstable.

skatespecialk · 2 days

I have a Hornet to complement my Buzzz on the windy days, it works great. I just had it out at Roper yesterday and it was quite windy. It's overstable enough to fight the wind and have a consistent left turn, but not so overstable that you can't do anything with it other than spike hyzers.

spoonraker · 3 days

I still have it. PayPal spoonraker@gmail.com and make sure I get your mailing address

areamanp · 3 days

I really don't have that crazy of an arm, I can shoot about 400' flat, but not much further.

I don't actually have a Beast myself, but I've thrown plenty of understable discs and anything with a -2 turn rating flips quite a bit for me. I throw an SL all the time, which is almost identical to a Beast (10/5/-1/2) and it is my go-to disc for flex shots with a nice gentle S curve or for moderate anhyzer shots (I have a Sidewinder for severe anhyzers), I imagine a Beast would be similar except with even more turn.

areamanp · 3 days

Why does everyone think a Beast is neutral? A Beast is actually quite understable, it's rated at -2 turn. I only throw discs rated -2 (or less) if I'm specifically looking to throw an anhyzer shot or a hyzer flip.

jazloc · 3 days

Oh, oh, do me next!

frozen_coyote · 3 days

It sounds like you just have a fairly easy course, so you might not have much of a need for high speed drivers. There's nothing wrong with that, though, so if you don't need high speed drivers then don't bother carrying them. You're the only one who knows what your bag does and doesn't need.

You should disc up out of necessity, not just because some internet guide told you to once you reach a certain distance on your drive.

areamanp · 3 days

If the Teebird is only going ~300 feet I would say it's not quite time to step up to faster discs yet, especially since you said you have a tendency to throw too high which causes the disc to fade really hard. A Teebird should easily be able to handle 350+ without really pushing the disc too hard, and it should have only a moderate fade. If you step up to a faster disc it's probably only going to exacerbate the "too much fade" problem. Once you iron out the nose angle issues you'll probably instantly step your Teebird's range up to 350+ and then it's time to start looking at slightly faster drivers.

RSnodgrass · 4 days

That isn't "loads" of sheep. That is, in fact, exactly one load of sheep.

MegamannE · 4 days

Here's my post from a few weeks ago with a good picture showing my 150 pound fat loss. There are plenty of success stories around here.

This post is also very motivating.

spoonraker · 5 days

I still have it, lucky for you whiskeybeard ended up buying 2 Anodes from me instead of one Anode and the Ion after I PM'd him that I actually have a second Anode I was thinking about selling too. Anyway, yes, I still have the Ion available. Paypal spoonraker@gmail.com, make sure I get your mailing address, and I'll have it in the mail asap.

spoonraker · 6 days

$20, duh, :p

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