1999 Astro Van. Chugging/stalling while driving in warm weather.

CQfrostingfingers · 2012-05-25T12:02:09.063399+00:00

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20060037473.pdf

felinebutcher · 2012-05-24T19:43:46.879045-07:00

Testify my brother! Upboat for you!

ghettajetta · 2012-05-25T02:27:40.916231+00:00

I've been looking for that...

CQfrostingfingers · 2012-05-24T19:26:18.857143-07:00

Oh well, I know what I know and you know what you know.

farret · 2012-05-25T02:25:51.537310+00:00

Of course! I kinda forgot that, thanks...

CQfrostingfingers · 1 day

The coatings on the ford were Teflon. They don't generally heat treat aluminum as far as I know. If the throttle body is that crusty then the noob probably should have the van towed to a shop, have the throttle body removed and cleaned. Preferably with a nylon brush, if the buildup is that bad.

CQfrostingfingers · 1 day

Yes we are, but a lot of the GM models also have coatings to prevent sludge build up. I'm fairly certain that most of the automakers were suffering the same problems with their throttle bodies. Even the latest drive by wires don't want anything more than a douche with throttle body cleaner on a rag.

Malthusian1 · 1 day

It actually looks pretty tasty!

CQfrostingfingers · 1 day

The coatings are pretty much on any Fomoco product from about 1990 and on. My source is that having worked on cars for around 30 years, I have been to a Ford school or 2 and they actually put labels on the throttle bodies. In fact they wouldn't even recommend using carb clean if it contains Methyl Ketanes.

CQfrostingfingers · 1 day

Don't use a brass brush or abrasives of any kind. A lot of throttle bodies of that and the current era have coatings that are delicate, and abrading them can cause engine problems.

farret · 1 day

You need fuel, spark, and compression to have the engine run.

Skaboss101 · 1 day

The long bolt that holds the two upper arms in place is a real bitch to get out here in the rust belt. You'll also do well to get a pickle fork or similar ball joint separating tool. Then if you get that far, make sure you install and torque everything correctly. Suspensions like to be on the ground befor you do the final tightening, so you don't stress the rubber bushings.

supertroll23 · 1 day

Yeah, muscle cars don't need to be concerned with air quality.

Vaiz · 2 days

There's a Hyundai Genesis in the way of your Cavalier!

sethborders · 2 days

What eog_prod said...

bedbathandbeyond · 3 days

http://www.mcmaps.com/mapsforschools.html

gunney456 · 3 days

Except, I think Bernie Taupin wrote the lyrics.

sethborders · 3 days

From the pic it looked lke it wore through in one spot, which could be a sign of a siezed pulley. Better to check while the belt isn't in the way.

sethborders · 3 days

You might be able to replace the bely, yourself, but I would want to know why it snapped in the first place. Is there a siezed pulley? Was there any warning noise before it snapped? (Like a squeal or anything that didn't quite sound right.)

AstroDayo · 3 days

Despite what was captioned in the video, I think Alan Grayson is an awesome legislator. We need more like him to ask the uncomfortable questions.

lalnyy8 · 3 days

Nice work! Also, your dog looks like my dear departed friend, Toast!

Anarchaeologist · 3 days

Typically, yes. If It came apart easily when you disassembled it, it probably will again, regardless of how tight it is now.

Love_the_PaleBlueDot · 4 days

Your choice, but when our shop was replacing engines as our bread and butter, I only ever had to remove a hood once, and that was on a 69 Javelin.

Love_the_PaleBlueDot · 4 days

You really don't have to remove the hood if you remove the intake manifold, and you're probably gonna have to do that anyway...

Anarchaeologist · 5 days

8 in the illustration says it's a dust cap. I does look like the arms are available, P/N 76540-SV4-003 and 76550-SV4-003, which appear to have the nylon pivot built in. You might try gluing the nylon back together or going to a boneyard for a couple of arms. They are very easy to break.

jamesmech

TROPHY CASE

8 in the illustration says it's a dust cap. I does look like the arms are available, P/N 76540-SV4-003 and 76550-SV4-003, which appear to have the nylon pivot built in. You might try gluing the nylon back together or going to a boneyard for a couple of arms. They are very easy to break.

jamesmech

TROPHY CASE

8 in the illustration says it's a dust cap. I does look like the arms are available, P/N 76540-SV4-003 and 76550-SV4-003, which appear to have the nylon pivot built in. You might try gluing the nylon back together or going to a boneyard for a couple of arms. They are very easy to break.

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