farfromfinland

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TROPHY CASE


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LPT: Unfit Gamers - do push ups during loading times. by reclessin LifeProTips

[–]farfromfinland -2 points-1 points ago

Only a fool would think this would get you fit.

The 5 Most Badass Things Done While Conquering a Mountain by Thrusthamsterin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 2 points3 points ago

Conquistador is a Spanish word. What do you suppose is its English translation?

Best body type for climbing? by CrazyBassoonistin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Climbing trad and alpine doesn't mean you're automatically good...

Unless I completely misunderstood the point of your post?

Did my first V8 last weekend! by Cuslacklinein climbing

[–]farfromfinland 1 point2 points ago

That's not saying much, but I'll agree.

Did my first V8 last weekend! by Cuslacklinein climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Dixon School Road?

Regular guy climbs "Just Do It" [5.14c] (a.k.a. motivation for nine-to-fivers like myself) by rift321in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 1 point2 points ago

"Rig" is now slang for a route? News to me...

One of my favourite trip reports - Speed Record with Cedar Wright (Chris McNamara) by Branch_McDanielin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 2 points3 points ago

It's true. Few people will ever know what it feels like to be that confident on the rock.

Unsafe? Yes. But bold climbs rarely happen in perfect safety.

Climb Red River Gorge in 4 hours? by ski_or_swimin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 6 points7 points ago

Yes.

Depends on where, though. That grade range, Muir would be choice.

15-20mins from Miguel's, maybe 15 minutes hike in. So if you're quick, 1+ hour or so travel time.

That leaves almost three hours to work with. I'd say Bruise Brothers would be your best choice with that time frame. You could easily do at least 8 or 9 routes with a two man team, if not more.

Badly bent BD biner almost led to a disaster. Anyone seen this before (images inside)? by yevernotin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 4 points5 points ago

I was going to suggest just this. Biner must have opened against the rock and this is the result. Manufacturing error or faulty design is much less likely.

What's in your show quiver? by MeanMonsieurMustardin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 2 points3 points ago

I'll second the ridiculousness of this. But I have one pair for outdoor and one for indoor. I was wearing nice shoes out way too fast inside.

People go way too far with the shoe thing. Having personally witnessed friends (and myself) climbing perfectly fine at their limit in rentals, shoes that don't fit well, and other such circumstances, I can say that the shoes don't make or break a climb.

Tomorrow is my first time climbing lead outdoors- what do I need to know? by Mr-Yuckin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Just have whoever you're going with hang the draws. At that point, only environmental factors separate you from gym climbing, in practice.

A pretty cool step-by-step explanation of anchor building for top-rope set ups. However, I found something I would do differently- curious as to whether anyone picks out the same thing. by kmentropyin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 6 points7 points ago*

He is placing his cams with the outboard lobes on top. They should always be on the bottom in a horizontal placement. It creates a much more stable placement.

Edit: Just to avoid arguing the basics of cam placement, here's a screenshot of the metolius cam manual that I dug out. http://minus.com/ijaXFJV2kGVy

How hard is it to repair anchor chains? by fewdoin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Or better yet, rap when you're cleaning if the route isn't steep.

Bouldering in the Red? by johnny_bgoodein climbing

[–]farfromfinland 1 point2 points ago

I've got the beta on this: it blows.

It's a random stretch of wall down at the bottom of their property with potential for 4-5 low quality problems, more shitty problems.

Their woody is decent, but small.

That being said, LoA is a great place to camp.

Stick Clips...Anyone use the Trango Squid before and recommend it? Or what else would you recommend?? by kram941in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Ah well I guess there's that if you were so inclined.

If I get in over my head I'd much rather just leave the biner than bring up the stick and go through all that. But, I have lots of shitty biners to leave.

Worst climbing purchases? by mtbrexin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Trango Flex cam #4. What a piece of shit...

Stick Clips...Anyone use the Trango Squid before and recommend it? Or what else would you recommend?? by kram941in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

Pretty much* have never felt the need to unclip with a stick before. Might want it someday though.

Stick Clips...Anyone use the Trango Squid before and recommend it? Or what else would you recommend?? by kram941in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

I have a painters pole with an alligator clamp. Does pretty much everything the squid does.

flair by soupyhandsin climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

"hangdog extraordinaire"

NC Pastor Sean Harris Suggests Parents Beat The Gay Out Of Their Children - YouTube by pullarius1in videos

[–]farfromfinland 102 points103 points ago

Ah yes, ad hominem. Because Ghandi was a man with faults, all of his wise statements are invalidated. Logical...

Top-rope death at the Gunks on Saturday by ctb3in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

You're not the only one.

Top-rope death at the Gunks on Saturday by ctb3in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 0 points1 point ago

This is great. There is a stronger way of setting up, using materials that climbers all have on them, yet you're advocating for the use of a girth hitch anyway, even in the face of massive strength reduction as per BD data. You're taking internet stubbornness to a whole new level today.

Also, great job with the downvotes on all of jlobes' posts in the thread. He brings in another voice and you feel the need to do that...

Top-rope death at the Gunks on Saturday by ctb3in climbing

[–]farfromfinland 2 points3 points ago*

Thank you very much for linking the Black Diamond tests to back me up. And thanks very much responding with the most basic rule of nylon on nylon. Running rope over a sling has nothing to do with this.

If you must join two slings, use the same materials and width Symmetrical knots (like the Strop Bend and Climber’s Hitch) appear to perform better than a standard Girth Hitch when joining two slings together.

It seems their tests show that using a Girth Hitch is not preferable. Their data even shows that using a girth hitch when joining slings caused their slings to fail at around half their rated strength, with 70% of their rated strength being the highest when they used the same material.

When you girth hitch slings together, neither part are moving. It's totally acceptable, and furthermore safe the only real caution is that you need to use two slings of the same type of material, and you should really only do it with nylong as opposed to these new future materials like dyneema.

You didn't say this. You said it's totally fine to girth hitch slings together.

The slings do move. There is absolutely no way you can girth hitch two slings together to take out any tightening that occurs during a fall. This tightening generates friction, nylon on nylon.

Edit:

I'd like to add one final thing. Look at where the slings failed. At the hitch. Why do you suppose that is? Take a guess.

Top-rope death at the Gunks on Saturday by ctb3in climbing

[–]farfromfinland -1 points0 points ago

STOP UPVOTING THIS YOU MORONS

IT IS NEVER FINE TO GIRTH HITCH SLINGS TOGETHER, EVER.

God damn, get to an AMGA single pitch course, all of you. Nylon slings generate a massive amount of friction and potentially cut each other when girth hitched together.

I dont generally all caps on here, but this is just dangerous.

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